HERAT, Afghanistan — In the quiet of their homes and under the watchful eye of Taliban, families in the western city of Herat marked the arrival of Nawroz, the Persian New Year, with modest gatherings and muted hopes.
Though officially banned by the Taliban for a third consecutive year, the centuries-old holiday — which celebrates the spring equinox and the renewal of life — was quietly observed by many residents. In living rooms across the city, women laid out haft-seen tables, the traditional arrangement of seven symbolic items, including sprouted greens, apples and coins, evoking wishes for health, prosperity and rebirth.
“We celebrated the new year again this year, as we always have,” said Rahela, a Herat resident. “Despite everything, I hope 1404 will bring happiness and success for the women of this country — and that their dreams will not be forgotten.”
Public celebrations, once marked by open-air festivals and family gatherings in parks and bazaars, have largely disappeared since the Taliban returned to power in August 2021. While small crowds ventured into the streets overnight, the atmosphere was subdued, and few signs of festivity remained by morning.
“The streets used to be full of color and laughter,” said Mohammad Arif, a vendor in central Herat. “Now, people pass by in silence. The economy is broken, and no one feels like celebrating.”
Atiqullah, another vendor, said business had declined sharply. “In previous years, I would have sold 10 or more balloons by now,” he said. “Tonight, on the eve of Nawroz, I’ve sold five.”
Since retaking control of the country, the Taliban have imposed sweeping restrictions on daily life, particularly for women and girls. Public celebrations of Nawroz have been labeled un-Islamic, and events such as the “Jahenda Bala” flag-raising ceremony — once held at shrines in Kabul and other cities — have been shut down by authorities.
Yet in Herat, as in other parts of the country, the private observance of Nawroz endures. For many Afghans, the holiday remains a quiet expression of cultural identity — and of resilience.
“Even if it’s only with a bowl of sprouted wheat and a handful of dried fruit,” said Rahela, “we will keep this tradition alive.”
